Passion Play Theater, Oberammergau, Germany. Seat Row 44, Number 22 (168 euros).
A must if one doesn't understand German, even if to whom it's a familiar story.
Back in 2014 we were visiting the region and chanced upon this huge theater in a small city. It was easy then to connect the place with this once every decade performance of the Passion Play. We decided to get tickets for the 2020 season, that of course got cancelled because of the COVID pandemic. So when we thought we could travel again "soon," I looked into this and found out tickets were readily available, so we decided to give this a second try.
One could argue the history of how this got to be a "big deal" is as interesting as how I enjoyed the play. For the former a quick search of the internet will return many articles of interest. Several issues are of interest: (1) how the script is re-written to excise much of the antisemitism that was in earlier versions of the play; (2) how the Judas angle has been changed to make him a more sympathetic figure - what drove his betrayal of Jesus was his disagreement with how to establish the "new" kingdom, and that he believed the high priests only wanted to talk to Jesus away from the crowds; and (3) the play ends with the women's dialog with an angel about an empty tomb (no tomb was shown).
The writer has incorporated many of Jesus's teachings and references to his deeds in the play, so you would get, for instance, the beatitudes and the Lord's Prayer which were taught at the beginning of Jesus's ministry. It appears he wanted to give a complete gospel message through the play.
The dialog was (of course) in German, and there were no foreign language subtitles. We bought a copy of the "Text Book" (for 6 euros) and tried to share it during the first half of the show. That didn't work as well as we liked, so at dinner break we bought another one. Even though it was good for about 1 1/2 hours, it still helped. I wish I had thought about it earlier. (Second half started at 8 pm, sundown around 9:15 pm, the show went on until 10:40 pm.)
I found the play compelling. What I am not sure is the reason: was it the first time I saw a full passion play (or a movie), or was this a particularly good production? The Tableau Vivant (Living Scenes) were interesting, but were on too short for me to really ponder their significance. Music for the play was all composed for the occasion, while (it is claimed) a lot of that is taught in schools in Oberammergau, it all sounded new to me. The choir and orchestra sounded great, the soloists were of differing standards. The sound system did its job.
A couple of scenes required special effects: Judas hanging himself, and Jesus and the two robbers being nailed on the cross. They looked realistic enough, I wonder if small children should be seeing the play. Children were on stage a lot of times, but (probably) not when these events took place.
The tour guide explained that Jesus is a lot more subdued in this version of the play: he was loud and agitated enough, I can't imagine what he was like in prior years. During the dinner break I was walking and came upon the area of the theater grounds where cast members gather. Perhaps I saw Jesus among them? In any case, "Jesus walked among men" came to mind.
Inside the theater. Row 44 is all the way up there! And it was Price Category 2 (1 was sold out when I tried to book in February.)
Just before 2:30 pm, when the show started.
A quick and inexpensive dinner at a nearby restaurant.
We were fortunate to be able to book a hotel nearby, and the two days we spent in town were quite delightful. Getting to and leaving Oberammergau was slightly eventful due to a railroad problem, but all in all things worked out fine.
I list below the acts and living scenes as listed in the program. At the end I append the notes I took while listening to the tour conducted by someone who played Nicodemus and was also the second director.
ACTS and Living Scenes
The Expulsion from Paradise
ENTRY INTO JERUSALEM
The Humiliation of the Israelites
JESUS IN BETHANY
The Golden Calf
EXPULSION OF THE MERCHANTS FROM THE TEMPLE
PILATE AND CAIAPHAS
The Red Sea
THE HIGH COUNCIL
JUDAS AND CAIAPHAS
The Burning Bush
THE LAST SUPPER
JESUS ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES
The Prophet Daniel in the Lions' Den
The Mockery of Job
INTERROGATION BEFORE ANNAS AND THE HIGH COUNCIL
Cain and Abel
JESUS IS MOCKED
PETER DINIES JESUS
JUDAS'S DESPAIR
Moses before Pharaoh
JESUS BEFORE PILATE AND HEROD
Joseph Interprets the Pharaoh's Dream
SENTENCING OF JESUS BY PILATE
Sacrifice of Isaac on Mount Moriah
Salvation by Looking Up to the Bronze Serpent
THE WAY OF THE SORROWS AND THE CRUCIFIXION
AT THE GRAVE
*** Notes taken during the morning tour, minimally edited ***
10:30 talk. 2nd director, Nicodemus. Some 400 cities pledged to do during the plague. Probably play already going as it took only 1 year. Enlightenment forbade play. Satan, angels. OB redid play.
Thomas Cook saw play and suggested auditorium. 1880; he would bring tourists. 1900 built 5000 people hall. Population around 2000(?). House of pilate, openings entry into Jerusalem, right side Annas. Middle different backdrops and living picture. Orchestra pit - live. Frozen people all real. People afraid of change. 1934 Hitler, used as excuse vs Jews. After wwii criticism and threat of boycott, 1990 big changes. Shorter. Used to be 16 hrs over 2 days. 1990 chris stickel (Stuckl). Rules change: women over 35 or married not allowed to play. 1990 sued, equal rights. 400 women wanted to join in 1990, so new mass scene. Every play new costumes and script. Used to be only people from churches could participate. Passion play used to mark year: I was born before 2010 play. Hymns learned in school. People made personal sacrifices to be here. In 2020 2300 participants, now 1800. Not all on stage! 100 people in orchestra. 120 choir. 20 main character each with 2 actors. Visit Israel before practice begins. Roles settled 2 years. Beard grows on Ash Wednesday. Except Roman soldiers.
1st part. Lifetime of Jesus. Discussion with disciples. ‘Play of its time.’ Now there is text on war (triggered by Ukraine). Relationship between Jesus and Judas also changed. Not only money; argue yet remain friends. Talk: he was on stage in 2010 (or 2000?) at age 11. 2 rules: don’t look at audience, listen to Jesus. 2010 he couldn’t play. Saw play and decided to come back. So has different perspective. Also director was 25 he wanted Jesus loud, now he wants a calmer character.
Most actors 25-35. Youngest baby 2 months, oldest 98 (don’t always have to show up).
Auditorium used for other productions: operas etc. 3 choirs, children encouraged to play instruments.
People are paid, even children.
Parts used to be handed down generations. At least preferences. Tradition no longer holds.
Tradition of who qualifies only started in the 60s with influx refugees. Policy being reviewed.
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