Friday, December 12, 2014

Taiwan National Symphony Orchestra – Shao-Chia Lu, conductor; Baiba Skride, violin. December 11, 2014.

National Concert Hall, Taipei.  Fourth floor, Row 12, Seat 26 (NT$320.)

Program: Symphonic Poem Series – An Orchestral Spectacular
Symphonia Domestica, Op. 53 by Richard Strauss (1864-1949).
Violin Concerto, Op. 77 by Brahms (1833-1897).

 The CKS Memorial is flanked by the National Theatre (left) and the National Concert Hall.

The huge stage of the National Concert Hall is dominated by the pipe organ.

My sister, her husband, and I are visiting Taiwan for a couple of days.  While having dinner at the food court at Taipei 101, I browsed the web and noticed that this concert was on at 7:30 pm.  I said goodbye to them and took the short subway ride to the concert hall, getting there at about 7:10 pm.  As I walked to the box office area, a group of young students said they got an extra group ticket which they got at 20% group discount.  At first I wanted to get a better seat, but relented after a while.  Turns out the seat was located at the last row of the rather cavernous concert hall, and I was among a large group of high school music students.

The concert hall has been around since the late 80s, and I had seen but not visited it on many prior visits to Taipei.  While large, it seats a surprisingly small number of people – about 2000.  The seats are large and quite comfortable.  This is the first concert hall I ever visited that I could rest my head against the back of the seat.  Attendance was only so-so, with many seats empty at our level.  I couldn’t see the orchestra level too well, but there were quite a few empty seats in the first few rows that I did see.  Not good.

In my rush to get to my seat, I didn’t have time to get a program.  (I did get one during the intermission, and it cost NT$30.)  But being the Strauss "expert" (after all, I visited Garmisch recently) that I am, I remember this as “a day in the lives of the Strausses” kind of tone poem, and that there would be baby crying and being calmed, Strauss’s wife scolding someone, and a romantic episode where more babies are expected to be conceived.  Turns out it’s not that far from what is in the Program Notes.  What I missed were the details, and the introduction of the baby’s aunts and uncles.  The Program Notes also mentions the father as having the last word – naturally – in the triumphant closing bars.

The word "expert" was properly enclosed in quotes as I don’t remember any of the music.  I am not creative enough to supply a narrative even though I knew the composition of the main characters.  The Notes devotes a whole page to outline the music, complete with whom the specific instruments represent.  Given how complex it reads, I am not sure I would have been able to follow along even if I had had the program in front of me.

This is my first encounter with the venue and the orchestra, so I can’t quite decide how good they are.  The acoustics as heard from the last row certainly was good, but that tends to be the case as the sound gets funneled by the relatively low ceiling.  The stage is huge, there was still lots of floor space left with over 100 musicians on stage.  An organ occupies the entire width of the stage.  Somehow I think the sound may come across crispier if they had put panels between the orchestra and the organ – of course the stage wouldn’t look as impressive with the organ blocked from view.  The orchestra certainly got all the mechanics right, but the performance didn’t bowl me over with how good the story was being told.  In their defense Strauss isn’t easy for this “expert” to grasp.

After the intermission I found myself an empty seat in the second row, which has a much better view of the stage.

Baiba Skride is a 33-year old, Latvian-born violinist who currently lives in Germany.  She plays the ‘Ex Baron Feilitzsch’ Stradivarius (1734) loaned to her by Gidon Kremer.  While the Program lists some impressive conductors and orchestras she has worked with, this was my first encounter of her performance.

The Brahms violin concerto is easy to like, and this performance is no exception.  While not unexpected, I was still disappointed by the poorer acoustics at the closer-in seat, and had trouble at times picking out the solo violin.  Skride had some minor problems with intonation, but put in an overall enjoyable and virtuoso performance.  The violin's lower registers sounded better than the higher registers, which is unusual for a Strad.  She also played a short piece as an encore.

The concert lasted a bit over two hours.

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